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The Cul-de-Sac

Cul-de-sac, from the French, bottom of the bag, or bottom of the sack, a dead end street. If you care to look at a cul-de-sac on a map, it looks like a crude drawing of a cock, so the sack is an appropriate word for that bulbous, often circular space at the end of many British cul-de-sacs that exploded (and I use that word explicitly) after World War 2.

Cul-de-sacs and dead end streets are not unique to these weird isles, of course. But there is something distinct about their status.

Cul-de-sacs differ from dead end streets, the former occur in more affluent British housing estates. A dead end street has been abandoned, given up on, or overwhelmed by what shuts it off – maybe a railway line or a motorway, a supermarket car park. Drive your car up and dead end street and you probably have to reverse out. Whereas a cul-sac-sac is genteel, your car can be turned to face the opposite direction gracefully, if not in one smooth manoeuvre, then maybe only two or three. A cul-de-sac will not embarrass you.

Sit in your car, or just hang around at the end of a cul-de-sac for too long and you will be noticed and surreptitiously eyed with suspicion.

A dead end street is very different. It’s a cliché in TV crime. You will sense danger, and, if you are fleeing from a gang, a hit man, the police, there’s a wall at the end, or a rusty eight foot fence. You have to scramble over, the enemy at your heels, only to find, on the other side, a canal or an allotment, and your fall will take through a greenhouse roof.

The British cul-de-sac is a haven, an enclave of lawns, hydrangeas, roses, Sunday dinners and blokes washing their cars, whistling, or listening to Radio Two.

President George W Bush did not say ‘the French have no word for entrepreneur’, but he did say ‘I know the human being and fish can coexist peacefully’ and ‘Rarely is the question asked: Is our children learning?’ but he looks like man of calm rationality compared to that tangerine fact-mangler.

But the English do have no word for ‘cul-de-sac’ and it’s this: ‘close’, the ‘close’ being a road that offers no route through. To live in a close on a relatively modern estate in the UK is know that you don’t live on a rat run, a short cut, a route for the scary and screaming acceleration of, usually, young men in Fiestas, Civics or Clios.

The word clos, the same word without the e, means, in French, a walled garden, usually a vineyard. And the etymology of the word Paradise is a from the Persian for walled garden. A close is a paradise. A cul de sac is the Garden of Eden.

Roman Polanski’s 1966 film Cul-de-Sac was shot on the island of Lindisfarne, Northumberland, off the the north east coast of England. The cul-de-sac here is the rising tide. Lindisfarne hs a causeway allowing access at low tide, but leave it too long and you can be cut off, stranded.

And at this point I am stranded, I have reached the end of the cul-de-sac and cannot spin the story around or reverse. I have no option but to wind the window down, listen to the song of the suburbs, the happy lives of those cut off from the modern world, living in a paradise of bungalows, birdfeeders and budgerigars.

(The above is a transcript from my podcast ‘These Weird Isles’ – available via Spotify, Apple, Amazon, Soundcloud etc).

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These Weird Isles

After coming down from my ten performances of ‘A Robinson Crusoe of the Soul’ I launched into looking into ways of staging it in south Wales. This has proved frustrating and glacially slow. I could grow carrots, cabbages and onions, breed and milk my own cows, make and market my own cole slaw, it would be easier and quicker than getting someone, anyone, in the Welsh arts world to give me even the tiniest leg up. I don’t blame individuals, it’s not a great time for the arts anywhere. Austerity, and all that. Brexit, blah blah blah. People have other things on their mind. Frustrated, and trying to keep the Robinson plate spinning, I came up with the thought that I could use the style of that show to create a series of podcasts. The last few years have been very depressing – the UK seems to have become a nation of boring, ultra-conservative, vitriolic, xenophobic philistines in gullible awe of privileged self-serving bullshitters like Rees-Mogg and Johnson. I needed to turn away from it, face a different direction, it was destroying my soul. I wanted to look at this country and find something I love. So I’ve started on a series of podcasts ‘These Weird Isles’ – a journey around less well known parts of the UK, layering memory, landscape, and the work of others who have passed the same way. There’s Batman and Gwen John in Haverfordwest, Peter Cushing in Whitstable, there are curlews and plenty of cheese. Search ‘These Weird Isles’ on iTunes, Spotify, Stitcher or Soundcloud. Or, if you can’t find them there, they’re here.

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Filed under A Robinson Crusoe of the Soul, podcast, Wales